"I met Lila das Gupta, the Spanish-Indian founder of Perfume Lovers’ London and Basenotes writer, at a one-day course with Karen Gilbert on synthetic materials. Lila was working on her Oriental scent for real Oriental women. She’s made one at a previous workshop, but had forgotten to write down the materials she’d used. So, after creating a tiny bottle of her perfect signature scent, she’d no idea how to make another one. A bit later in the year, I was round at her house for my Basenotes interview, and she brought out her magnificent collection of amber and Oriental fragrances. The problem, I thought, was that the classic Orientals were developed in the 1920s by European men who’d never been to the Orient, and had some very odd ideas about Eastern women. Lila wanted a scent for real Oriental women, to celebrate her Eastern origins, and she wanted me to make it for her. I was stunned, honoured and scared at the same time. So, I went for it. This is a deep amber, made with vanillin and labdanum, with piles of Middle Eastern sweetness and spicy resins, with a dose of incense. Lila hasn’t smelled it yet. I’ll do an update when she lets me know what she thinks of it." Sarah McCartney

NOTES: Amber,vanillin, labdanum, cocoa absolute,caramelly ethyl vanillin, patchouli, frankincense, cardamom, clary sage, cedarwood, pink peppercorn, holy basil, bergamot, juniper berry